I travelled to Lourdes with the Diocese of Leeds 2015 Pilgrimage. This pilgrimage group is very large in number, and goes to Lourdes every July. My writer friend has been travelling with them for six years, acting as a volunteer carer for the sick, and I went along as her guest.
In the days before we set off, I read up on St. Bernadette Soubirous and the Marian apparitions of 1858 - to help gain an insight into why Lourdes is dear to so many people's hearts. The heart of the Sanctuaries (as the holy area of the town is known) is the Grotto, where Our Lady (the Blessed Virgin Mary) is believed to have appeared, and the spring waters that St. Bernadette dug up there during one apparition have become associated with healing. The Sanctuaries also house several churches and candle burners, and processions are held there every day - with all events and actions being inspired by St. Bernadette's story, or Our Lady's instructions to her during her visions.
Shortly after my arrival in Lourdes, I came to the shocking realisation that I had lost my fedora somewhere en route! But I didn't have time to worry about it - there was a packed itinerary ahead, filled with both religious and social events. Whilst the pilgrimage is ultimately about faith, there is also a strong social aspect: pilgrims and carers get together each day to enjoy each other's company and have fun, with several entertaining events being held by volunteers. My writer friend even helped write and stage mystery plays in the past!
Even if you are not a believer, I feel that anyone could appreciate the architectural beauty of Lourdes. The churches are all beautifully built and wonderfully decorated. One of my favourites was the lovely Rosary Basilica, which is covered in mosaics depicting the 20 Mysteries of the Rosary - 5 outside, 15 inside.
On top of the basilica is a golden Crown and Cross - a gift from the people of Ireland. Women even offered their wedding rings to be melted down in order to make it! Just behind the basilica is a smaller church, the Crypt: this was the church that was built in St. Bernadette's lifetime, and one she actually visited. Today, it houses some of her relics.
The top of the Rosary Basilica is also a great vantage point from which to watch the nightly Torchlight Procession - where pilgrims process around the Sanctuaries whilst holding candles and reciting the Rosary, with hymns and other prayers mixed in.
Another interesting church is the Underground Basilica - which is the size of a football stadium, and houses banners that depict saints from several different countries and time periods. International Mass is held here twice a week.
Of course, one of the most special places in the Sanctuaries is the Grotto. At certain times of the day, you are permitted to walk through it - the rock is very smooth to the touch, since so many hands have brushed across it over the years! Here, you can see the spring, and look up at the spot where St. Bernadette saw the Blessed Virgin.
Other places that featured in St. Bernadette's life are also available to visit. These include the Parish Church (which, whilst rebuilt in the years since St. Bernadette's time, still houses the font she was baptised in), the Boly Mill (where she was born), and The Cachot (a small, disused prison cell that the Soubirous family were forced to live in when they were struck by poverty, and their home at the time of the apparitions).
However, the Sanctuaries and religious sites are not the only part of Lourdes that offer great beauty. The town itself, based at the foot of the Pyrenees mountains, is in a truly stunning location. I spent several mornings standing on the Pont Vieux (Old Bridge), admiring the River Gave.
Non-religious places of interest include the Chateau Fort - a former military stronghold and now a museum, which offers amazing views of the town, and the Pic du Jer, a mountain that can be ascended by the means of a funicular railway, and another hot spot for beautiful views.
Whilst I loved my visit to Lourdes, I only saw a fraction of what the town has to offer. Even my writer friend - who, as I mentioned, has been going there for six years - still hasn't seen everything. A return trip is definitely in order sometime soon!
And, when I got home, there was a surprise waiting for me! My writer friend told an acquaintance of hers about how I'd lost my fedora, and they made me a new one! I felt like myself again!
Until next time!
- Indigo
